Madiran is full bodied crisp red wine subtle and yet vibrant enough to comfortably drink a glass before a meal.

More to follow shortly

It is very powerful, broodingly rich and opaque, but the tannin is extremely elevated and one wonders what is going to fall away first, the fruit or the tannin?

This wine still has the potential to last for another 20-25 years, and therein lies much of the mystique of this vintage. (tasted 1994)

The wine merchants who got in early with this wine are sitting quietly as it matures.  This is going to be a sure classic,even though you can drink it very easily right now.

Origin France, South of France, Languedoc
Vintage 2008
Producer Domaine de Bertier
Style Rich Complex Reds
Grape Varieties Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
Price Range Less than £8
Alcohol 13.5%

Meetings are structured but informal, with the emphasis on the open and frank exchange of views. Membership is limited to the number that can comfortably gather around a small table, to combine the benefits of full participation and effective decision-making. The Bunch was founded with serious ends in view but also to enable its members to enjoy the pleasures which the wine trade exists to serve; the combination of delicious wines, good food and agreeable conversation. It was establised in 1993 at the instigation of wine merchant, Graham Chidgey.

The members of The Bunch are Yapp Brothers, Tanners, Corney & Barrow, Berry Bros. & Rudd and Adnams; represented by Jason Yapp, James Tanner, Adam Brett- Smith, Alun Griffiths MW and Rupert Farquharson respectively.

The finest and best adapted red grape varieties traditionally grown here are the Grenache Noir and the Carignan Noir.

Many of the gnarled vines are over 100 years old and from these the true taste of the region can be found; intense, vivid fruit and wild thyme, fennel, rosemary and juniper aromas.

To these, Syrah and Mourvedre (with their origins in the Rhone valley and Provence or northern Spain, respectively), add depth and structure to the wines.

From former times, tiny amounts of red-fleshed Morrastel Bouchet, Alicante Bouchet, and Grenache Rose still exist. Although not known for its white wines, this area has a great potential for wines made from Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris, with small amounts of the long-forgotten Terret Bourret, Carignan Blanc and Blanquette.

Each of these varieties has a place in the final blend of the wines.

La Serre – A dry, characterful, white wine, made from Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris, which shows light citrus flavours with notes of spearmint and minerality, opening up to give white peach, cashew nut and light spices on the palate.

La Sorbeille – A dry, rich, deep coloured rosé, made from Syrah with Carignan and Grenache Noir, showing pronounced red fruits, particularly cherries and wild raspberries with cream and pain d’épices.

Le Fournas – A medium bodied red made from Syrah, Grenache and Carignan with ripe plums and loganberries, brown sugar and leather supported by fresh acidity and soft tannins.

Magneric – A medium to full bodied red made from Old Vine Carignan, Old Vine Grenache and Syrah. intense, deep black and red fruits, particularly ripe blackberries and wild raspberries, complemented by a light barrel note. The tannins are fairly dense but soft and ripe and compliment well this full and concentrated palate

In addition to these, we release other cuvées, blends or single varietals where we feel the vintage has been outstanding. Examples of these are the Carignan and Celèstra.

Case of 12

On arrival, you will be greeted by a collection of farm buildings and at least one, and probably two, bounding dogs.

But that’s ok. The car will survive, the dogs will be friendly and the vigneron will shortly emerge to shoo them away if they’re not. More daunting is the fact that you are now in the heart of the world of wine.

The ability to distinguish a St Emilion from a Châteauneuf-du-Pape does not make you a better, or more interesting, person. The entire point of the stuff is to fuel conviviality, so you may tackle it on any level you like. (After two glasses, the levels fuse anyway.) You will only look a fool if you do something really foolish but isn’t this with all subject matter!

Bear this in mind and you’re halfway to a successful vineyard trip.

Follow these 10 steps and success will be complete.

Step 1
Be exacting in the matter of the welcome you receive. Winemakers in France are on the rack at the moment, their sales challenged by New World competition and Old World puritanism. They should therefore be delighted to see you. If they are not, turn round and leave. There will be dozens of others nearby.

Step 2
You will be ushered into one of the stone buildings, where there will be either a proper tasting counter or a gap between vats and barrels. Remember: this is not a church. It is a farm shop. There’s no more need to be reverential here than there is at the fishmonger’s.

Step 3
A tour of the winemaking set-up may be proposed. Accept it on a first visit, but refuse all subsequent offers. Once you’ve seen one viticultural operation, you’ve seen them all.

Step 4
The “Dégustation Gratuite” (‘Free Wine-Tasting’) is the reward for slogging round the technical stuff. Once there’s wine in your glass, hold it up to the light and say, “Belle robe!” This usually means “Nice dress”. Here it means “Nice colour”. Now tip the glass over slightly. Then tip it back again. A decent wine will leave pronounced streaks on the glass, and you will say, “Belles jambes!” which means “Nice legs!” These phrases serve only to indicate how easily Frenchmen scramble their pleasures of the flesh.

Step 5
Now swirl and sniff… which doesn’t come naturally to Britons, who consider sniffing drinks a rather precious practice. But in France it’s expected, and anyone can smell fruit and flowers in various white wines, vanilla or tobacco in some reds. It takes but a moment’s concentration.

Step 6
Time for a sip – and do try all the chewing, sucking the wine across the palate and joggling it about in the mouth that you’ve seen on TV. It really does bring out the flavours.

Step 7
Spit it out you must – unless you want to be carried from the place singing ‘Eskimo Nell’. It’s easy, like spitting out after brushing your teeth. During a tasting in Bordeaux, I inadvertently spat out over our 15 month old son. He’d come up silently on my blind side in a pushchair pushed by my wife.

Step 8
Meanwhile, the vigneron will have been talking at length about his vines, the earth and his family’s deep roots therein – the mystical alchemy of all three explaining the excellence of his wines. It’s easy to mock. I’ve done so often. But it comes with absolute sincerity, and the chap will now be searching your faces for signs of approval. Give them.

Step 9
Avoid, though, flights of wine-buffery (“I’m getting generous notes of a warm night in Tuscany, with just a hint of elderflower”). These indicate that you’re insane. If you have liked the wine, “delightful” (“un régal”) is quite sufficient. If you have doubts, try “it needs a little more time fully to express itself.” (“Il a besoin d’un peu plus de temps pour s’exprimer pleinement.”)

Step 10
Now you must buy something. Good manners require nothing less. If the wines haven’t impressed, buy a couple of bottles of the least expensive.

Where to stay

France’s three most famous wine regions – Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne – have any number of excellent hotels. Here are three of my favourites.